How to Make Your Mascara Look Great

If you're tired of thin, barely there lashes or clumpy, spidery lashes, it may be time to rethink how you apply your mascara. Making your mascara look great starts with using the right type, but it's also important to prepare your lashes in the right way and know the proper techniques for applying mascara to achieve maximum impact. Once you pick up a few quick tips, you can have long, thick, fluttery lashes without falsies everyday.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Finding the Right Mascara

1. Choose the right mascara formula. The first step in making your mascara look great is making sure to use the right formula. Mascaras are designed to do different things for your lashes, so if you use a lengthening mascara when you want thicker-looking lashes, you’ll probably be disappointed. Check to make sure that the formula you’re using meets your needs.^[1]
   
   • A lengthening or defining mascara is meant to help your lashes look longer.
   • A volumizing or thickening mascara is meant to help your lashes look thicker.
   • A curling mascara is meant to help lift and bend straight lashes.
   • A tubing mascara contains special polymers that form tubes around your lashes that make them longer and thicker.
   • A fiber mascara contain fiber filaments that adhere to your natural lashes so they appear thicker and longer.
   • Some mascara formulas are designed to lengthen and thicken for an overall improved look for the lashes. If you’re not sure what you want out of mascara, opt for this type of multipurpose formula.
   • Depending on your needs, you may want to use a combination of mascaras in different formulas. For example, you may do a first coat with a volumizing mascara and then add a second coat of a lengthening mascara to separate and define your lashes.
2. Consider the mascara’s brush or wand. In addition to the mascara formula itself, the type of brush or wand that a mascara has makes a big difference in the finished look of your lashes. Some brushes feature nylon bristles, while others are made of molded plastic. The shape and layout of the brush affects how the mascara is applied as well. Work with a brush or wand that suits your needs.^[2]
   
   • For thick, fluttery lashes, look for a mascara with a brush that is thick and densely bristled.
   • For long, defined lashes, look for a mascara with a brush that has sparse, short bristles.
   • For the lower lashes, choose a mascara with a small brush head.
3. Opt for a waterproof formula. If you want to ensure that your mascara looks great all day, it’s important to use a waterproof version. It holds up well to tears, sweat, and any other kind of moisture, and also helps lock the curl into your lashes. Use a waterproof mascara so you don’t have to worry about running, smudging, or flaking beneath the eyes.^[3]
   
   • The drawback to waterproof mascara is that it can be tough to remove. Make sure that you have a waterproof eye makeup remover on hand to take it off at the end of the day.
   • If you wear contacts or have sensitive eyes, be sure that your mascara is also hypoallergenic so you don’t have to worry about the formula irritating your eyes.
4. Keep your mascara fresh. Like all makeup, mascara can actually go bad over time. An old mascara can not only cause eye irritations and infections, but it can make your lashes look clumpy. That’s because mascara dries out as it gets old so it can become thick and crusty. Make sure the mascara that you’re using is less than 3 months old.
   
   • If you have multiple tubes of mascara and it’s difficult to keep track of how old they are, consider putting labels on them. Write the date that you opened the tube on the label, and stick it on the mascara so you’ll know when your 3 months are up.
5. Use a black mascara. For the best, most intense look, you should use a black mascara. It does the best job of making lashes look thicker and longer, so be sure to choose the blackest mascara you can find. Save colored mascaras, such as blue, purple, or green, for adding a fun pop of color to your lower lashes.^[4]
   
   • If you have extremely fair skin, you may prefer to use a black brown mascara so it doesn’t look as harsh.

[Edit]Preparing Your Lashes

1. Condition your lashes nightly. For your mascara to look as good as possible, you must start with soft, healthy lashes. You can purchase a lash conditioner product that helps moisturize your lashes. Apply it nightly after you’ve removed all of your mascara and other eye makeup to wake up with healthy lashes.^[5]
   
   • If you don’t want to purchase a specialty lash conditioner, you can use petroleum jelly, vitamin E, or coconut oil. Dip a clean spoolie into one of them, and coat your lashes before going to bed.
2. Curl your lashes before applying mascara. Your mascara will look better if your lashes are curled. That’s because curling your lashes lifts them and helps them look a little fuller. However, it’s important to use your lash curler before you apply mascara. If your lashes are wet, they can stick to the curler and you may pull some out while you’re curling.^[6]
   
   • If you don’t have an eyelash curler or aren’t comfortable using one, you can apply your mascara first. When your lashes are still wet, gently push them upward to create and curl. Hold them like that for 10 to 15 seconds.
3. Start with a lash primer. After curling your lashes, it helps to apply a lash primer before using your mascara. A primer conditions and coats the lashes so they appear thicker and longer. They’ll also provide a base for the mascara to cling to.^[7]
   

[Edit]Applying Your Mascara

1. Blot the mascara wand. When you pull the mascara wand out of the tube, it will be loaded with product. If you apply it to your lashes right away, your lashes may look clumpy. Instead, wipe the wand off on a tissue or napkin to remove the excess mascara.^[8]
   
   • If you don’t have a tissue handy, try wiping the wand off on the side of the tube’s opening.
2. Wiggle the wand back and forth at the base of the lashes. When you’re ready to apply the mascara, start by holding the brush right at the root of your lashes. Gently wiggle it back and forth to ensure that you apply a generous coat at the root.^[9]
   
   • Make sure to wiggle the brush left to right rather than up and down for the best looking lashes.
3. Use a zigzag motion to cover your lashes. After you’ve applied mascara to the base of your lashes, move the wand in a zigzag motion from the roots to the tips of your lashes. This technique creates a more fluttery look for your lashes.^[10]
   
   • For your lower lashes, hold the wand vertically so you can coat each lash individually.
4. Comb through your lashes after applying the mascara. Once you’ve applied the first coat of mascara, allow your lashes to dry for 3 to 5 seconds. Next, take a clean lash comb and run through your lashes to remove any clumps and fan out your lashes.^[11]
   
   • If you don’t have a lash brush or comb, you can use a clean toothbrush or disposable spoolie to comb through your lashes.
5. Add additional coats if necessary. If your lashes don’t appear as long or thick as you’d like after your first coat of mascara, apply additional coats. Keep in mind that the more mascara you add, the more likely your lashes are to clump so don’t overload on mascara.^[12]
   
   • Be sure to comb your lashes after each coat of mascara that you apply to avoid clumps.

[Edit]Tips

• Apply other eye makeup, such as eye shadow and liner, before you apply your mascara.
• If you’re worried about getting mascara on your eyelid, hold a business card over your eyelid, just above your lashes, as you apply it. Any smudges that you might make will happen on the card, not your eyelid.
• If you do get mascara on your eyelid, carefully spin the tip of cotton swab on the spot to remove the mascara without disturbing your other eye makeup.
• Don’t pump your mascara wand in and out of the tube. That introduces air into the bottle, which will dry your mascara out faster.

[Edit]Things You’ll Need

• Mascara in your chosen formula
• Lash conditioner
• An eyelash curler
• Lash primer
• A lash comb or brush

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Apply Mascara
• Apply False Eyelashes
• Apply Makeup
• Apply Eye Makeup
• Get Perfect Eyelashes

[Edit]References

1. ↑ https://www.makeupgeek.com/content/makeup-basics/how-to-apply-mascara-like-a-pro/
2. ↑ http://www.allure.com/story/how-to-choose-mascara-wand
3. ↑ https://www.makeupgeek.com/content/makeup-basics/how-to-apply-mascara-like-a-pro/
4. ↑ https://www.makeupgeek.com/content/makeup-basics/how-to-apply-mascara-like-a-pro/
5. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/tricks-for-eyelashes/
6. ↑ http://www.refinery29.com/how-to-use-mascara#slide-1
7. ↑ http://www.beautyandtips.com/makeup/15-mascara-tips-make-your-lashes-look-their-bes/
8. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/tricks-for-eyelashes/
9. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/tricks-for-eyelashes/
10. ↑ http://www.refinery29.com/how-to-use-mascara#slide-4
11. ↑ http://stylecaster.com/beauty/tricks-for-eyelashes/
12. ↑ http://www.refinery29.com/how-to-use-mascara#slide-10

How to Identify a Brown Recluse

Learn if a spider is a brown recluse and what to do if you're bitten

These shy little spiders are most known by their dark-brown violin markings, which is why they're also called "fiddle-back" or "violin" spiders. Although many people are afraid of them and they have a bad reputation, brown recluse bites are actually very rare. While they are venomous, they usually only pose a serious risk to children or elderly people with pre-existing health conditions.^[1] Read on to learn everything you need to know about brown recluses, including what you should do if you think you've been bitten by one.

[Edit]Things You Should Know

• Brown recluses are small spiders with light-brown bodies and legs, 6 eyes, and fine hair on their legs.
• True to their name, brown recluses favor sheltered, out-of-the-way places and typically aren't out in plain sight.
• Brown recluse spiders are native to the southeastern and midwest United States. If you live elsewhere, the spider is likely not a brown recluse.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Identification Chart

Brown Recluse Identification Chart

Brown Recluse Identification Chart

[Edit]Features of a Brown Recluse

1. Light-brown body and legs{endbold}
   The brown recluse is a solid light-brown color, typically similar to dirt or sand. Apart from the violin marking behind their heads, these spiders don't have any variation in color on either their bodies or their legs, including their undersides.^[2]
   
   • If the spider has stripes or other markings on its body or legs, it's not a brown recluse.
   • Spiders with darker abdomens or several different colors on their bodies also aren't brown recluses. For example, huntsman spiders and funnel weavers are often mistaken for brown recluses, but they have different colors on their bodies and legs.^[3]
2. Violin marking{endbold}
   This dark brown marking appears on the brown recluse's cephalothorax—typically people will just refer to this as the spider's back, although that's not completely accurate. The neck of the violin points toward the spider's body. The shape isn't always super well-defined, though, so it can be hard to spot.^[4]
   
   • Other types of spiders have similar markings, so this alone isn't enough to guarantee you're looking at a brown recluse.
3. Six eyes{endbold}
   The brown recluse's unique eye configuration is usually an easier way to identify them than other markings. While most spiders have 8 eyes, a brown recluse has only 6, arranged in 3 pairs—one directly in the center of their head with the other 2 pairs on either side.^[5]
   
   • The eyes are so small it can be difficult to actually see them without a magnifying glass. If you're going to hold a magnifying glass up to a live spider, be careful!
   • A woodlouse spider also has 6 eyes, but they're in a different configuration. Woodlouse spiders tend to be reddish with a dark-reddish brown front half, pale back half, and gray abdomen.^[6]
4. Fine hair{endbold}
   Most spiders have spines on their legs, but brown recluses have only fine hairs. If you see spines, you're definitely looking at a different species of spider.^[7]
   
5. Small size{endbold}
   A brown recluse's body doesn't grow much bigger than with its legs extended. If you've got a big, scary-looking spider, it's probably not a brown recluse. These small spiders can sit comfortably on the head of a US quarter, including their legs.^[8]
   
   • If the spider is much larger, you're likely looking at a wolf spider.

[Edit]Brown Recluse Habitat

1. Southeastern and midwest United States{endbold}
   Brown recluse spiders live primarily in 16 US states: Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, Ohio, Oklahoma, Tennessee, and Texas. If you don't live in these areas, chances are you'll never encounter a brown recluse spider.^[9]
   
   • Brown recluse spiders have been found in large cities outside these areas, likely because they were hiding in something that was moved there.^[10]
2. Dry, hidden spaces{endbold}
   These spiders are called "recluses" because they tend to favor out-of-the-way places where they won't be disturbed. Generally, they're just not really interested in people and try to stay out of your way. Look for them in:^[11]
   
   • Attics
   • Dry basements
   • Closets
   • Sheds or barns
   • Woodpiles^[12]
   • Shoes
   • Boxes of stored items
3. Loose, sticky webs{endbold}
   Brown recluse spiders don't use their webs to catch prey—they go out hunting at night. Their webs are flat retreats in the bottom of boxes or corners, constructed to protect the spider and their young. The loose strands of the web are sticky to the touch and usually off-white or grayish in color.^[13]
   

[Edit]Treating a Brown Recluse Bite

1. Wash the bite area immediately upon discovery. A brown recluse bite isn't going to hurt. In fact, it can take up to 8 hours before you even realize you were bitten at all. When you notice a bite, clean it carefully with soap and warm water.^[14]
   
   • The area around the bite might become red or swollen within 3-8 hours after the bite. You might also feel a burning sensation.
   • Apply an ice pack or cold compress to the site for 10 minutes to reduce swelling.
2. Seek medical treatment as soon as possible. When in doubt, call your doctor about any painful or swollen bite. Even if it's not a brown recluse bite, prompt medical treatment will keep it from developing into something more serious. Prompt medical treatment is especially important for small children and elderly adults or people with pre-existing medical conditions.^[15]
   
   • Keep in mind that doctors aren't typically entomologists. They'll treat your bite but might not be able to tell if it was actually a brown recluse bite or something else. ^[16]
   • If severe, an ulcer will develop within 3-5 days after the initial bite. If the ulcer breaks down, it becomes a wound that can take months to completely heal.^[17]
3. Monitor other symptoms, including fever and nausea. If you develop a fever or if the area around the bite appears infected, get emergency medical treatment as soon as possible. Even though this is likely a secondary infection, it's still a medical emergency. You need antibiotics to kill the infection and keep it from spreading.^[18]
   
   • If not infected, most brown recluse bites heal completely within 3 weeks.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

• Shake out seasonal clothing and shoes before you put them on, especially if they were kept in a dark, dry area.^[19]
• Plug up or seal any vents or gaps to keep brown recluse spiders from entering your home.
• Wear work gloves and long sleeves when sorting through clothing or stored items—the small brown recluse can't bite through clothing.^[20]

[Edit]Warnings

• If you think you've been bitten by a brown recluse, seek medical treatment as soon as possible.^[21]
• Brown recluse spider bites are particularly dangerous for children, elderly people, and people with pre-existing medical conditions.^[22]

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Identify a Cobweb Spider

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
2. ↑ https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/home/the-brown-recluse-spider-facts-control/
3. ↑ https://spiders.ucr.edu/how-identify-and-misidentify-brown-recluse-spider
4. ↑ [v161700_b01]. 20 January 2021.
5. ↑ https://extension.psu.edu/brown-recluse-spiders
6. ↑ http://www.idph.state.il.us/envhealth/pcspiders.htm
7. ↑ https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/home/the-brown-recluse-spider-facts-control/
8. ↑ https://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/breclusene.shtml
9. ↑ https://extension.psu.edu/brown-recluse-spiders
10. ↑ [v161700_b01]. 20 January 2021.
11. ↑ [v161700_b01]. 20 January 2021.
12. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
13. ↑ https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/home/the-brown-recluse-spider-facts-control/
14. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
15. ↑ http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002859.htm
16. ↑ [v161700_b01]. 20 January 2021.
17. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
18. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
19. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
20. ↑ https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/22946-brown-recluse-spider-bite
21. ↑ http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002859.htm
22. ↑ http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002859.htm

How to Mulch Around a Tree

How to mulch a tree for healthy roots

Putting mulch around a tree makes lawns more attractive, controls weeds, and helps maintain soil moisture. However, if you apply mulch incorrectly, you can stimulate fungus growth, attract insects, and starve the tree's roots of oxygen. Luckily, expertly mulching around a tree is easy as can be if you follow our simple and effective steps. Read on for magnificent mulching!

[Edit]Things You Should Know

• Shovel away old mulch, rocks, grass, and/or weeds from around your tree’s base to prepare your tree’s root flare for fresh mulch.
• Spread an even layer of medium-textured mulch in a 4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) diameter around the tree, leaving 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of space between the tree and the mulch.
• Continue to spread an even layer of mulch around the tree until it’s 2–4 inches (5.1-10.2 cm) deep, adding stones around the mulch’s edge to create a barrier, if desired.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Adding a Proper Mulch Bed

1. Select a medium-textured mulch. Fine textured mulch gets compacted and will starve your tree's roots of oxygen, while coarse mulch is too porous to maintain adequate water levels. A medium-textured mulch will hold water and won't starve the tree's roots of oxygen making it the perfect choice for use around your tree.^[1]
   
   • Organic mulches include wood chips, bark, pine needles, leaves, and compost mixes.
   • If you're unsure how much mulch you'll need, type "mulch calculator" into a search engine to find online tools to help you calculate the amount.
2. Spread mulch in a diameter around the tree. Apply a thin layer of mulch around the tree, not touching the tree itself. Leave of space between the base of the tree and the mulch.^[2]
   
   • Remove any existing mulch, if necessary, by shoveling or spading it away.
   • Avoid creating a “mulch volcano” (pile of mulch around the tree’s base), as it will cut off your beautiful tree’s access to the oxygen it needs to thrive.
   • Mulch stops serving a purpose after covering up to a diameter around the tree.
3. Continue laying down mulch until it's deep. Keep layering the mulch around the tree until it's at the proper depth of 2–4 inches (5.1–10.2 cm) and is spread level around the tree.^[3]
   
4. Create a mulch-bed barrier with stones or extra mulch if desired. Pile about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra mulch around the edges of your mulch bed to create a barrier that will prevent your freshly laid mulch from washing away when it rains. Placing rocks around the mulch bed is another effective and stylish way to create a barrier as well.^[4]
   

[Edit]Mulch Bed Maintnence

1. Pull or kill weeds that grow out of the mulch. Mulch acts as a barrier for weeds and grass. Pull any weeds or grass that begin to grow out of the mulch bed throughout the year to prevent future growth and disruption of your tree’s root system.^[5]
   
   • Apply herbicide, (chemical weed killer) around your tree to prevent grass and weeds from growing in your beautiful new mulch.
   • If you use an herbicide, ensure it's safe around trees.
2. Rake the mulch to prevent it from getting packed down. Compacted mulch prevents oxygen from passing through, will starve your tree's roots, and often occurs due to excessive rainfall or people walking over it. Loosen compacted mulch by raking it.^[6]
   
3. Replenish the mulch once a year. Mulching around the tree once a year will prevent weeds, provide essential nutrients, and help with the tree's drainage. Healthy, happy trees, here we come!^[7]
   

[Edit]Removing an Existing “Mulch Volcano”

1. Shovel away old mulch, dirt, and rocks. Shovel away all the old mulch, debris, and rocks so that the tree trunk is visible. A "mulch volcano” occurs when mulch gets piled up year after year around the base of a tree. This is detrimental, as it starves the roots of necessary oxygen.^[8]
   
2. Remove girdling roots with a girdling chisel and mallet. If you notice any roots growing upward around the tree as you clear away old mulch, remove 1-2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of the root where it contacts the tree trunk. Position your girdling chisel at the desired cut point and use your mallet to pound the shear into the root.^[9]
   
   • Removing girdling roots will ensure that these roots do not reconnect and cause problems later down the line.
   • Girdling roots (roots visible around the tree's base) indicate that the tree is starved for oxygen and will wrap around the tree's base and kill it over time.
3. Remove grass and other weeds around the tree with a spade. Scrape the area around the tree's base to remove weeds and/or grass. Once you shovel away the excess mulch, dirt, and rocks, you’ll see the primary root flare around the tree's base.^[10]
   
   • Mulch will act as a natural weed barrier.
   • Avoid using roll-out weed barriers, also known as landscaping fabric, as these will starve the tree of oxygen and compact the soil underneath them.^[11]

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Things You'll Need

• Spade
• Medium-textured mulch
• Grinding chisel
• Mallet
• Weed killer (optional)

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ https://mortonarb.org/plant-and-protect/tree-plant-care/plant-care-resources/mulching-trees-and-shrubs/#mulch-material
2. ↑ https://mortonarb.org/plant-and-protect/tree-plant-care/plant-care-resources/mulching-trees-and-shrubs/#applying-mulch
3. ↑ https://mgsb.ucanr.edu/?blogtag=irrigation&blogasset=88432
4. ↑ https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-keep-mulch-from-floating-out-of-flower-beds/
5. ↑ https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/managing-vegetation-around-fruit-trees
6. ↑ https://youtu.be/P5HJQrDE9b8?t=141
7. ↑ https://wec.ifas.ufl.edu/extension/gc/madera/landscaping/mulch.htm
8. ↑ https://bygl.osu.edu/node/1494
9. ↑ https://extension.umd.edu/resource/girdling-roots
10. ↑ https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/managing-vegetation-around-fruit-trees
11. ↑ https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2021-06-25-disadvantages-landscape-fabric

How to Grow a Mango Tree

An easy guide to germinate and grow your own mangoes

If you love mangoes and want to try your hand at growing them at home, you're in luck! Planting a mango tree is a fairly easy and straightforward process, and we're going to walk you through it every step of the way. In this article, we'll explain how to pick a site location, prep the soil, germinate seeds, and transplant young mango trees in the ground. In a few years, you'll be enjoying a homegrown harvest of juicy, sweet mangoes.

[Edit]Things You Should Know

• Plant the mango seed deep in a container of soil-less potting mix and wait 2-3 weeks for it to sprout. Water it weekly and transfer it to larger pots as needed.
• Select a planting area with well-draining soil that gets 6+ hours of sunlight daily. Plant the young tree in the ground 4-6 months after sowing the seed.
• Dig a hole 3-4 times bigger than the young tree's rootball. Nestle the rootball into the hole, backfill around it, and water it immediately.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Site Selection & Soil Prep

1. Grow mangoes in warm, humid climates for the best results. Mango trees are tropical plants that thrive best in high heat, and can handle both humid/swampy or arid areas. Most mangoes are grown near the equator, and in the United States they are primarily grown in Florida, California, and Hawaii. Climates with average temperatures of and frost-free winters are perfect for growing mangoes.^[1]
   
   • Mangoes thrive in USDA hardiness zones 10B through 1. Find the hardiness zone map here. ^[2]
   • Temperatures below damage mango trees, and temps below interfere with flowering and fruiting.^[3]
   • Mangoes prefer of rainfall (or less) per year.
2. Select a roomy planting area that gets 6 hours of sunlight daily. Grow mangoes in large pots or pick a spacious area outside that receives full sun (6 or more hours of light per day). Tree size varies by species, but most mango species get quite large and trees can live 40+ years. Choose a spot away from other trees so the mango has room to thrive.^[4]
   
   • Since they prefer heat and direct sunlight, mangoes don’t grow well indoors (although it's fine to bring potted mango trees inside for the winter).
3. Pick a planting location with loose, well-draining soil. Mango trees can adapt to most types of soil (including sandy, loamy, etc.) as long as there's good drainage and adequate space for growth. To prepare and loosen up the soil, till it about deep.
   
   • Check the pH of your soil; mango trees grow best in soil that has a pH of 4.5 – 7 (acidic). Incorporate peat moss into your soil on a yearly basis in order to keep the acidity high.^[5]
   • Avoid using chemical fertilizers, salts, boron and, lawn herbicides since mango trees are sensitive to them.^[6]
4. Plant mango trees in late spring or early summer. Wait until the weather is warm and all danger of frost has passed so the mango tree can establish itself in temperate conditions. Planting time may depend on the species, so check online or with your local nursery if you need more specific details.^[7]
   
   • For example, some mango varieties, such as the Beverly and Keitt don’t need to be planted until August/September.^[8]

[Edit]Seed Germination & Seedling Care

1. Get mango seeds from large, ripe polyembryonic mangoes. Polyembryonic seeds produce clones of the parent tree. If you live in an area that grows mangoes, visit local orchards to select a fruit. If you don’t have access to a healthy mango tree, visit a local grocer or farmer's market to select a fruit. Ask the salesperson for help in choosing a fruit that is polyembryonic.^[9]
   
   • If you don't want to grow from seed, consider buying grafted saplings from a nursery.
   • Mango seeds typically take 8 years to produce fruit. Grafted saplings take 3-5 years to produce fruit.
   • Seed-grown trees tend to be much stronger and hardier, but they may not be as reliable as grafted trees when it comes to fruit-bearing.
2. Remove the mango's flesh and clean the pit. Eat the mango, or remove all of the existing fruit, until the fibrous pit is exposed. Clean the pit with a scrub brush or steel wool pad to remove the hairs and stubborn flesh clinging to the pit.^[10]
   
   • Be careful not to scrub away at the outer coating of the pit! Only to remove the fruit fibers that are still attached.
3. Pry the pit open and remove the seed. Let the pit dry out overnight in a cool location. Then, open the pit with a sharp knife, similar to how you'd shuck an oyster. Take care not to cut too deeply since you might damage the enclosed seed (which resembles a large lima bean).^[11]
   
4. Put the seed deep in a container of potting mix. Use a soil-less potting mix made for citrus plants, cacti, or palms for the best results. Position the seed concave side down and cover it up with soil. Dampen the soil and place the container in a warm, shaded area until the seed sprouts. This process usually takes 2-3 weeks.^[12]
   
   • Keep the soil moist until the seed sprouts.
   • Put the seedling in a warm place that doesn't drop below to make sure it keeps growing. The leaves may drop off if the temperature gets lower than that.
5. Water the seedling 1-3 times per week until it's ready to transplant. Water new seedlings 2-3 times during the first week. After the first week, slow down watering to 1-2 times per week until the seedling is established. As your seedling grows, transfer it to larger pots so it doesn't become root bound. Mango tree seedlings are ready to plant into the ground when they're 4-6 months old.^[13]
   
   • Anytime between 4-18 months is a good time to transplant a young mango tree.

[Edit]Planting a Young Tree & Harvesting Mangoes

1. Dig a hole 3-4 times bigger than the mango tree's rootball. You don't need to add compost to the soil, but if your soil lacks nutrients, you can mix compost into the soil (no more than a 50/50 mixture).^[14]
   
2. Take the sapling out of the container and put the rootball in the hole. The base of the tree/sprout should be level with or slightly above the ground. Fill soil in around the rootball and tamp it slightly to remove any air pockets.^[15]
   
   • Mango trees grow best in loose soil, so avoid applying too much pressure as you refill the hole.
3. Water the soil around the tree and tree roots. Mango trees don’t need a ton of water, but it's important to water the new tree every other day for the first week. Then, water it only once or twice a week for the first year.^[16]
   
   • If there are 5 or more days of little to no rainfall, water your young mango tree (under 3 years old) once a week until the dry period ends.
4. Pull weeds around the mango tree regularly. Pull any plants that sprout up near the trunk of the tree as soon as you notice them. Add a layer of mulch around the tree to help trap in moisture and prevent weed growth.^[17]
   
   • Organic mulch is the best option for mango trees.
5. Fertilize the tree once a month once you notice new growth. Avoid fertilizing the tree immediately after planting it. Once the tree is established and starts growing, fertilize once a month for the first year with a water soluble fertilizer.^[18]
   
6. Monitor the tree for diseases and treat them immediately. The 2 major disease problems for mango trees are powdery white mildew and anthracnose (which are both fungal diseases). If you see white mildew or black spotted fruit, apply fungicides immediately to control the issue and knock out the fungus as quickly as possible.^[19]
   
   • Mango trees are pretty hardy against pests. Mites and scale insects may attack your mango trees, but they won't affect your harvest unless the tree becomes completely infested.^[20]
7. Prune your tree once a year in the early spring. Annual maintenance pruning provides space for branches to form. Remove any dead or sucker branches growing from the main structural branches. Cut branches from the trunk if there's too much crowding near the center, typically after the last fruit of the season (in the fall). To limit outward growth, simply cut off branches that are too tall or wide.^[21]
   
   • Be sure to prune off any damaged branches, as well, especially following winter freezes.^[22]
8. Harvest your mangoes 4-5 years after planting the tree. Mango trees self-pollinate (each tree has flowers with male and female parts), so you'll be able to harvest mangoes from a single tree.^[23] Harvest mango fruit by hand when it reaches the mature-green stage. Fruits should be hard and green when pick them. Pull or cut each fruit leaving a stalk attached.^[24]
   
   • Because mangoes vary in color, shape, and size from species to species, you can’t tell if the fruit is ripe until you cut it open. When the meat is yellow through to the core, it's ready to eat. If the meat still very white and hard, wait 1-2 weeks to ripen the mango and then check it again.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

• Space mango trees approximately from other trees, or each other, for optimal growth.
• Protect your young mango tree from winter frost by tenting or wrapping it securely with a blanket or bring it inside if it is potted.

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Plant a Mango Seed
• Plant Fruit Trees
• Fertilize Fruit Trees
• Prepare Soil for Fruit Trees
• Pick a Good Mango
• Tell if a Mango Is Ripe
• Eat a Mango

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/mango/infos
2. ↑ https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/ST404
3. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
4. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
5. ↑ http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/crops/i_mango.htm
6. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
7. ↑ https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/mangoes/spacing-soil-preparation-and-planting-mangoes
8. ↑ http://www.tropicamango.com/mangos.html
9. ↑ https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/mangoes/propagating-mangoes
10. ↑ https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/mango/infos
11. ↑ https://www.naplesgarden.org/kitchen-scrap-gardening-series-planting-a-mango-seed/
12. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
13. ↑ https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/mangoes/spacing-soil-preparation-and-planting-mangoes
14. ↑ https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/mg216
15. ↑ http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg216
16. ↑ http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg216
17. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
18. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
19. ↑ https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/mg216
20. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
21. ↑ https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/mango/infos
22. ↑ https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact-sheets/mango/
23. ↑ https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0304423816301170
24. ↑ https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/mango/infos